COMPREHENSIVE BIKEFIT   5 - 6 hrs   £250

Garry Kirk Bike Fitting utilises Steve Hogg's patented methods for foot correction.  He is a  Steve Hogg Approved bike fitter.

SO WHAT'S INVOLVED & WHAT'S INCLUDED ?

The above price is that for a bike fitting with Garry. Insoles, wedging & any shimming will further be determined using patented techniques developed by Steve Hogg.  There are currently only 10 fitters in the world licensed to use these methods of which he is one. This means the final cost can't be pre determined and the cost of these items is in addition to the above fitting fee. Sidas insoles will be used unless you opt for the G8 2620's. In some cases where arch height differs substantially I may recommend G8's as the best option. 

  • G8 Insoles £85

  • Sidas Insoles £30

  • Wedges £3 p/wedge

  • Shims £5 p/shim

  • Custom Speedplay Shim stack £35

 

This service leaves no stone unturned. Below you will find a detailed account of everything that is included and why this is the single most detailed and comprehensive bike fitting service in Scotland.

 

  In brief, the fit shall begin with a detailed client survey. This includes a sporting history, injury inventory, your goals, targets and ambitions and much more. 

I will then assess the cerebellum, vestibular system, how well you function, what your flexibility is like, as well as establishing and correcting any neurological deficits collected through a lifetime of compensations. This assessment includes assessing leg length and will resolve any lateral pelvic tilt displayed in standing posture once more utilising methods developed by Steve Hogg

This is NOT a systemised bikefit. It is designed to reduce the positional, functional & neurological challenges that plague a massive section of the cycling population today.  It is based on identifying and resolving individual limitations. There is no set order to changes here, this isn't a tick box process we're working through and it certainly isn't as simple as moving you within a 'range' of angles either. Every single fitting is different and the order of the changes I make are different from fit to fit depending on what I find to be the most obvious initial problems.  

CLEAT POSITION & SHIM STACK (IF REQUIRED)

To talk about cleat position is to talk about your cleats fore/aft, lateral position and it’s float.

A popular method for determining cleat position is to position the ball of the foot over the pedal axle (BOFPA) which I’m sure many of you have done or at least tried to do in the past. What I will say right now is that the cleat position we arrive at during your fit is much more individual to you. It will take into account the kind of riding or events you do, the distances involved and even takes into consideration any injuries you may have at the time of the fit or may have sustained in the past. Everyone’s feet are different, you can take it from me, they’re like faces, they’re all different. The feet themselves along with a given pedal system, pedalling technique, shoe size and brand of shoe all have an affect on achieving a desired cleat position.

Once that is established, I will then determine whether or not you need a shim stack to account for a measurable leg length difference (MLLD) or a functional leg length difference (FLLD).

FOOT CORRECTION

More than 99.99% of people need foot correction in their cycling shoes. Common statements from prospective fit clients can typically sound something like this.. "Oh I'm not that serious a cyclist" or "I don't think I need that" which is nothing more than assumption based on a lack of understanding and maybe even confidence. Everyone needs it and that is why it is included in every fitting I undertake.

 

In so many cases relating to comfort on a bicycle - people just don't know what they don't know. We have not evolved to ride bicycles, it is an un natural activity and there is a proprioceptive connection we need to make between foot and brain if we want to optimise our performance on a bicycle whilst reducing our  susceptibility to overuse injuries. When I say everyone needs it, we must think about what riding a bike means. You are riding a bike in a position just now and your saddle may be 40mm too high, it may be 40mm too low but you're still riding your bike. The same can be said for foot correction, you may be riding your bike without it just now, so it is possible to do so, but that doesn't mean it isn't better with it, in the same as your saddle would be far better set at the correct saddle height.

 

Foot Correction consists of the application of suitable insoles or orthotics (when needed) and wedging or canting of the foot. 

Feet vary dramatically and the range of insoles I stock allow for this. It is worth noting here that insoles which have been made for walking and running won't work in your cycling shoes as the way the foot behaves in a cycling shoe is different to how it behaves when walking and running. It's a little bit like the common misconception that if your feet point a certain way off the bike, they should look the same on the bike. I hear this a fair bit as well - the reality is often something different - in both cases.

Wedging can come in several forms. There are in the shoe (ITS) forefoot wedges which are positioned inside the shoe under the forefoot, cleat wedges - which are positioned between the cleat and the sole of the cycling shoe and heel wedges which as the title suggests are placed underneath the heel inside the shoe.

 

The kind of wedging you need and the numbers of wedges you need are individual to you and are dependent on whether arch support has been properly applied to begin with. There only is a correct number of wedges placed in the correct location which will help attain proprioceptive feedback from the feet and NOT - like many market driven services indicate - as many as are required to get you 'tracking' properly.

This is a complex subject and again it is often implemented wrongly. The issue with doing this wrong is that it can actually do more harm than good. 

The result of getting it right however, is stability of the foot, improved neural feedback from the feet and in turn improved biomechanics. These improvements increase efficiency and reduce the risk of overuse injuries. 

N.B A good fitting, stiff soled cycling shoe really helps in achieving optimal foot correction and also in reducing a large many other foot related issues on a bicycle. For info on cycling shoes please check here or contact me here.

SADDLE HEIGHT & SADDLE SETBACK

Saddle height, as I bikefit anyway, isn’t a number within a range, nor is it a specific angle, nor is it a result of some equation or formula. Saddle height should be set to within +/-1.5mm and  not within  10 degrees, or within any other pre determined parameter. There are far too many other variables to consider in bike fitting which affect saddle height that mean formula based fitting simply does not work. We will find a saddle height that is individually right for you. 

 

Saddle setback - once again as i practice it - is definitely not knee over pedal spindle (KOPS ) either. I’m sure most of you will have seen or heard of KOPS, or possibly even tried to drop a plumb line yourself or maybe even use a laser to position your knee (tibial tuberosity) directly over the pedal axle of your pedals. 

We won’t be adopting any of these methods. We will arrive at a saddle setback which is individually suitable for you, both from a neurological standpoint and also one whereby we enlist musculature in such a way we gain more leverage on the pedals and thus better efficiency of your pedal stroke. Much more information relating to saddle setback will be divulged as we progress through your fit and you will become more aware of why it is so important to find what is right for you, rather than just blindly applying KOPS. 

 

REACH & DROP TO THE HANDLEBARS

Once the main parameters of fit are sorted (generally speaking) we  ascertain your reach and drop to the handlebars, as well as looking at bar angle and the placement of the hoods. When I say generally speaking, I don’t always work the same way, sometimes it may be necessary to start with reach and drop, then move to cleat position and then to saddle height and so on, however this is generally dialled in at the end of the fit. Reach and drop is largely determined by limb length, flexibility and the kind of riding you do. Reach and drop should be comfortable for the duration you ride your bicycle for, whilst not affecting on the bike symmetry or pelvic stability. 

 

As you can see, if it was as simple as applying a knee angle, KOPS & BOFPA, we’d all be happily riding our bikes and there’d be no need to seek out the services of a good bike fitter. 

The fully comprehensive bikefit is about achieving optimal muscle recruitment, reducing the risk of injury, increasing leverage and power on the pedals whilst improving comfort and increasing efficiency.

THE FOLLOW UP

Included in the price is the option to have a follow up appointment whereby after a period of adaptation I will take another look at you and see how you have settled into your new position. I see about 1-2% of people for a follow up, but the option is still there and still should be.

People adapt differently and it just depends on the individual as to whether a follow up will be necessary or not. Sometimes I insist on one, it just depends.

TIME TRIAL & TRIATHLON BIKE FITTING

When booking in for a TT/Tri fit there are three options available to you. 

  1. The first is that you bring in your bicycle without cables or bar tape installed so that it may be adjusted on the day as closely to that of which we find suitable using the purely custom fitbike.  It is then up to you to have the cables/bar tape re installed on your bike, either by doing so yourself or utilising your chosen mechanic. 

  2. You bring your bike in as it is and if the fit runs over the 4.5hr mark we move to an hourly rate (£40 p/hr) until the work is done.  There are modern bikes which literally require hours of manual labour to even change something as simple as a stem. 

  3. You come in with your bike in it's current state and if the work runs over you use the bike measurements provided at the time of your fit to try and replicate the fit in your own time.

The issue here is that with the advent of integration, it is becoming almost impossible to adjust some TT/Tri bikes (and even some road bikes) within the scope of a bikefit . This is due to poor initial design priorities and the limited adjustability integrated offerings provide. The integration of cabling drastically affects things as well. 

The point in a bikefit is you arrive at the best position for you. This is where the Jig is invaluable and allows me to move a rider outwith the constraints of what they were perhaps able to achieve for themselves on their own bike with it's inherent limitations and in turn find a better overall bike position.

Everyone wants aero, but at the expense of what? A good position?  If you have a bar that you can't get to work and all you can do to get it to work is move your saddle forward, then do that yourself, because I have two options, do the same which doesn't make financial sense for you or allow me to do what it is I do and find the correct place for your saddle which then means if the reach is compromised because of the adjustability of the bike, then that front end is what I will suggest needs addressing. 

 

When using the jig I use profile design basebars and aero bars and have a range of different aero bar extensions as well. I stock what I use on the jig and the option is then there to have these installed on the day so that the position is as close to the jig fitting as can be achieved. Please don't buy things prior to your fit thinking they will help, they rarely if ever do. There may be a case where risers help if the current bar is adjustable but we can discuss that prior to your fitting.

It may be the case if your current aerobars are adjustable - and many are- with cables and tape in place, that I conduct the fit using the Kurt Kinetic rock n roll turbo trainer and we achieve a good fit that way. I am more than happy to do that. 

 

 If you are looking at your TT bike and thinking "that's not adjustable" then it isn't going to enter my studio and be any more adjustable for me. This will then mean one of three things.. 

  1. You settle for a poor position on the day because you are not prepared to adjust or replace the bars.

  2. It costs you more because it all needs stripped and replaced with something adjustable OR

  3. you come in for the fit,  we find what works and then apply it to the bike. 

Having used different bike fitting technologies in the past the issue with much of them is that in the wrong hands the basic premise of bike positioning is lost in the blind pursuit of aerodynamics. Only the skilled fitter can really find the balance required for a sustainable yet aerodynamic position and all that technology used correctly proves is that very fact.

It is possible to make someone more aerodynamic, but there's a point where it isn't sustainable anymore. Much of the industry standard in terms of Triathlon position in particular, often yields unbelievably bad results in so far as that they position the rider that far forward they are achieving nothing but a loss of both power AND sustainability. I often look at these positions and the main issue is there isn't even a true gain in aerodynamics. Often I can fit a road rider with a lower torso angle than some of these positions if the rider themselves functions well. 

This is why we must begin with a safe, stable position that yields good leverage on the pedals coupled with an ability to breathe fully under load. From there, depending on the event, you asses what you can afford to lose in the pursuit of aerodynamics and find a sustainable balance. This is where working closely with a fitter over time is essential.

BIKE FITTING FOR CX, MTB, TRACK & EVERYTHING INBETWEEN

There are many other factors to consider when positioning a rider within the many other different disciplines of cycling. In mountain biking alone for example , there are many different geometries which directly relate to the many different disciplines of mountain biking. You wouldn't position a rider the same way on a XC mountain bike as you would a downhill mountain bike, in the same way you wouldn't position someone specialising in 10 mile TT's the same way you would an ironman distance triathlete. CX again requires a position to meet the demands of the event itself in the same way a track position is different to the road bike position I would arrive at using the methods described above.   

No matter what your chosen discipline I have the knowledge and experince to help maximise your potential through your bike position alone. 

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